Oaxaca, the Mixe district of the Sierra Norte Region – the unity and highlights some
Alvin Starkman MA, LL.B.
Ecotourism as as we know it in the district of Ixtlan de la Sierra Norte, may never reach the mixes, due to its distance from the city of Oaxaca, among other factors. However, the Mixe still has many of the traps that attract travelers who want to get away from city life and see different places and more natural. In terms of material culture, the district may actually be higher. Indeed, unity, best handled as a two-day excursion, has much to offer from just as the ascent begins Central Valleys of Oaxaca.
What is in store if they venture out with their own or a rental car for this hike km 280 (return), there are cave paintings, cascading springs; meals so fresh that the roadside restaurants have no refrigeration is required, markets, products plant agave and mezcal and pulque, the pottery in a style and color not often found in the state capital, and on a daily basis using unique dress women, regional.
The unit itself, without stops or side trips, has more than three hours, starting in Oaxaca and ending at the final destination of Santa recommended Mary Tlahuitoltepec. But is the path which a large part of the appeal.
Driving from Oaxaca to San Lorenzo Albarradas located at the top of the mixes, takes about an hour and can be reached by continuing on Highway 190 along beyond Mitla. The first sight of interest is Xaagá, a small town whose main industry is cotton scarves made loom, scarves and shawls, as well as shirts and blouses, all wholesale intermediaries or traders with positions in Mitla, Tlacolula, or El Tule Oaxaca. Xaagá is also known for 3000-10000 years old cave paintings. For between 50 and 100 pesos may hire a local to guide you to them. The last meters of the trip are a number of difficult climbing, so wear boots or running shoes. Even if you do the final stretch, the drawings will be very close to you and easy to photograph. You can follow the dirt road to the water bubbling Xaagá and "cascades" of deposits mineral water boils. Great for swimming, in one of two poolings reach just over 6 '. Unless you start very early, it is recommended that you leave only one of these two places, perhaps to save the other for the return trip, depending on the time available. If it is the water boils, it is best to take the alternative route Back to Highway 190, especially during the rainy season, and in light of the ongoing controversy (single problem) between two peoples claiming the right require an entrance fee for tourists.
Back on Highway 190, after 10 minutes, San Jose del Paso pass to the left, another marginal community, whose residents make their living modest production of cotton textiles. A few minutes later you'll find two picturesque mezcal "factories" directly across the road from each other, much more rustic and traditional to the largest commercial facilities that cater to tourists, what one finds in the road to Mitla. In short, one of the two small facilities will be in full production, with the ability to witness a couple of steps in the process, either agave baking in an oven on the floor, a mule crush the cooked products, fermentation in vats of pine wood or fuel still the most pure mezcal in a leaking container of plastic or copper.
If you miss the process, about 10 minutes on the same road, just before San Lorenzo Albarradas cutting to the left you will find another mezcal factory, this time with a restaurant together called Dining El Tigre. There is no electricity and no refrigeration. It is not necessary. A very nice family owns the place. Do not expect a menu, but rather the mother or daughter-in-law that rhyme out of what is available for breakfast or lunch: memelitas, quesadillas, eggs griddle, eggs against chorizo, grilled sausage, jerky, jerky, or a daily stew. All safe. Served with beans and fresh salsa course did before your eyes and served as mortar. Perhaps best of all is to be able to pick up a tortilla directly on the griddle over an open fire.
About a mile off the road find a sign telling you the right to Boil Water (for routing). The last 15 minutes drive to Boil Water is on dirt road, but a new tarmac road being cut through the mountains.
Up to this point in time the journey of the vegetation, because the focus of Mitla, has been mixed scrub, cactus and some cultivated plants, with a predominance of agave.
Back in main road, time of day, ran a gradual rise in Ayutla, the first city of importance in the mixes. agave rapidly changing vegetation of pine and other conifers, and construction of buildings of brick to wood. large bags of pine charcoal to sell pepper roads. In the approach Ayutla to your left you will find the first of two or three outlets pottery. Stop by, do some shopping, or just keep a mental note of prices and that you are going through another further along and can always return to it in the return journey.
Also begin to see trout farms, with large artificial tank fed with a continuous flow of fresh water above the springs. These are not for fishing, but rather for the purchase of fresh fish to take home or eat at a restaurant contiguous. On this trip we spent the night in the Hotel Restaurant "Tek", located on the left, just past Restaurant epazote. "Tek" is the best trout my wife has never eaten, baked in a large leaf and aromatic sealed with foil, with a cast filled with fresh cheeses, tomatoes, peppers and other spices, and topped with chipotle mayonnaise. The hotel, supposedly better than the city has to offer, it was essential to the extreme, with shared bathroom. Make your own bed linen pillow. For 200 pesos per night for a couple, however, was hard to complain. Dinner for two with a couple of shots of mezcal, beer and bottles of water into wine at 126 pesos.
On this particular Saturday, there is horse racing back naked on the outskirts of the city in a valley dotted with freshwater pools suitable for swimming in the family. Our Hotel hosts were kind enough to take to the races. Unfortunately, the main view of the city, cascading springs seem to be a good picturesque surroundings inaccessible because of a dispute over water rights between the population and the village along the way, Tamazulapan the Holy Spirit. Sounds familiar, right?
Tamazulapan is about 15 minutes of Ayutla. Approaching the village, on the left you'll see another shot terra cotta pottery. The owner and his sons are very nice, and actually offered to take us to a nearby village where the pottery is formed and fired. Also accompanied us to the market, showed us around, and asked we made sure not to lose the pulque festival held this Sunday.
Here we are, finally, in the heart of the country and see Mixe clothes and women dressed in traditional costumes consisting of a black shawl on her head, a white blouse in a variety of fashion styles and embroidered with a witness, and either a long white or black skirt embroidered with palm leaves wrap belt on which a red, embroidered with brightly colored cotton second belt is connected.
Until recently there was a market day in Tamazulapan, the common people attending Ayutla for Sunday market. But now, as a result of the dispute, has Tamazulapan its own Sunday market. While traditional blouses can be purchased in town at a reasonable price if purchased from the women's cooperative, there is a better selection of road Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec.
Tlahuitoltepec is about a 35-40 minute drive from Tamazulapan, the last 15 minutes or less a dirt road, winding and dipping into the valley. Its market day is Saturday. Above native clothing is manufactured in huts close to the city. If interested in seeing the production process, ask a resident and was pointed in the right direction. Here, as in the cities of the market, you will find a cane drink fermented sugar and fresh pulque. Interestingly, the mezcal is not close, at least we can see, however, pulque, which comes from a different variety of agave, the pulque, is a common drink sold along the streets and markets. The reason is likely that the pulquero tolerate colder weather than the variety of agave Sprat the most mezcal is produced.
In any of the above three cities and towns you can hike in the countryside, meet the residents local, and be well received. They are not as accustomed to encountering foreigners as are those of the other districts in the Sierra Norte, and many struggle with Spanish. You will find the more you venture into the mixes, the softest voice of the people to be more surprising than those found in the central valleys of Oaxaca.
The order of the top places is simply a function of home in Oaxaca and arbitrary list of stops in the order that each town or city is first detected. By all means design your own itinerary, consider market days, when you want to stop at a restaurant and that the beds below, and most importantly based on their interests individuals, whether for purchases of crafts, hiking, or simply meeting and perhaps photograph the local people. Certainly, we will be back in the mixes, stopping in different places, wandering off the road to small villages, and safely reach deeper into the district, ultimately reaching Santiago Zacatepec.
About the Author
Alvin Starkman received his Masters in Social Anthropology in 1978. After teaching for a few years he attended Osgoode Hall Law School in Toronto, thereafter embarking upon a career as a litigator until 2004. Alvin now resides in Oaxaca, where he writes, leads small group tours to the villages, markets, ruins and other sites, is a consultant to film production companies, and operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast. ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ) .
